Nasce a costura e o design de Jojó
Natural da Zambézia, distrito de Inhassunge, Jojó Sumaila perdeu os pais muito cedo e teve de viver num internato gerido por padres, onde foi descoberto o seu talento para o design e corte & costura. Desde então, o artista nunca mais parou, aprimorou-se nesta área, formou-se em contabilidade e técnico aduaneiro e de cidade em cidade, acabou se estabelecendo em Maputo, onde possui um atelier no Mercado Janete. Nada melhor que acompanhar a história de Jojó na primeira pessoa.
Qual foi a sua história de vida e que percurso seguiu até à descoberta do seu talento para o design de moda e para o corte & costura?
O meu talento foi descoberto num Internato de padres onde passei parte da minha infância. Lá, eu observava as irmãs de caridade a fazer o trabalho de corte & costura e comecei a trabalhar com as máquinas, a imitar. Vendo a minha curiosidade, elas decidiram ensinar-me o trabalho. O meu talento estava mais acentuado na área de design pois desde cedo já fazia desenhos de feitios de roupas por confeccionar. Daí… entrei para a área do corte & costura, onde aprendi muito.
Mais tarde, sai de Inhassunge e fui viver na cidade de Quelimane. As condições lá não eram favoráveis, por isso fiquei lá apenas dois anos. Por outro lado, tinha que dar continuidade aos meus estudos e fui viver com a minha irmã na cidade da Beira. Passados dois anos parti de Quelimane com destino a Maputo, e como vivia sozinho e tinha de me sustentar, comecei a exercer tudo o que tinha aprendido sobre corte & costura. Comprei todo o material necessário; comecei a costurar baseando-me nos meus próprios desenhos; e passei também a vender as peças.
Com o meio de sustento garantido, retornei à escola e frequentei a 7.ª classe na Escola Primária da Malhangalene. Concluída a 7.ª classe, passei para a escola comercial onde cursei Contabilidade Básica. Mais tarde, arrendei um estabelecimento comercial na zona do Alto Maé onde costurava para a clientela. Passado algum tempo, o dono da loja pediu a devolução da mesma e passei a trabalhar em casa.
Ao longo do tempo, depois de ter concluído o nível básico de Contabilidade Geral, consegui esse espaço aqui no Mercado Janet, e, nessa altura, ingressei no curso médio de Contabilidade Geral. Mais tarde e tendo-o concluído, passei a fazer o curso de Técnico Aduaneiro, sendo que estes estudos eram sustentados pelo trabalho de corte & costura, que ainda hoje é o sustento da minha família. E, concluídos os estudos, criei uma pequena empresa de logística vocacionada para a área de despacho aduaneiro.
Qual é o perfil dos seus clientes?
Trabalho na área de corte & costura há mais de 10 anos e costuro para ambos os sexos mas os meus trabalhos são mais procurados por mulheres das classes média e alta (ministras, deputadas, e outras individualidades). E, neste momento, conto com apenas um ajudante.
Por outro lado, tenho alguns clientes no exterior, como moçambicanos na diáspora, turistas e outros que visitam o nosso país por motivos de trabalho. Para estes casos, o cliente manda as dimensões, escolhe os feitios, requisita e depois de concluído o trabalho, envio as peças pelos correios. Para os turistas, costumo dar um bónus de 10 ou 15 por cento de desconto, para incentivar, pois estes vêm de longe e, muitas vezes, compram porque realmente gostam de determinada peça, e não porque o tenham planeado.
Que tipo de roupa é mais procurada pelos clientes? Quais são os períodos de pico?
O prato forte é a roupa africana que, ultimamente, virou moda no seio dos moçambicanos. Esta tornou-se o traje de referência nas cerimónias como xiguiane, xitique, troca de presentes, datas comemorativas, entre outros. Mas esta não é a minha única inclinação pois quando aprendi costura não ensinaram a fazer só roupa africana. Fazíamos variedades de estilos, mas agora a tendência é para a roupa africana. Os períodos de pico para esta área são entre os meses de Outubro e Dezembro e o período mais fraco entre os meses de Janeiro e Março. Nos restantes meses, a demanda é normal.
Tenho feito roupa para exposição nas feiras, inserido num núcleo para o efeito. Normalmente, essas feiras acontecem trimestralmente na Feima, onde temos vendido mais para turistas do que para nacionais. Neste momento, estou na fase de ensaio para fazer pastas escolares, pastas, bolsas femininas e acessórios. Entretanto, o mercado não oferece o material apropriado, é preciso importar e estou agora a preparar-me para tal.
Acredito que estes produtos irão impulsionar o meu negócio porque são bastante procurados por turistas, que gostam de acessórios feitos de capulana.
Onde é adquirido o material que usa nos seus trabalhos?
Ultimamente há muita variedade de tecidos, e outros materiais. Existe material importado e nacional, mas o nosso mercado tem limitações em termos de material por isso importamos da África do sul para complementar. Por vezes temos boas iniciativas para fazer peças bonitas e de qualidade mas o mercado não oferece material completo então, acabamos importando e isso é oneroso para as finanças.
Normalmente temos importado da África do sul os seguintes materiais: véu cru, diversos tipos de entretela, broches, variedades de botões, molas de pressão, punhos para camisolas, foros para casacos, tecidos para vestidos de gala, e de noivas, entre outros, porque o nosso mercado não oferece, ou se existem, não tem qualidade.
Fala-nos dos custos e ganhos relativos a esta actividade.
Não costumo registar os lucros, e sim tenho contabilizado os gastos mensais em termos de energia, água, transporte, material de trabalho que são por volta de 30 mil meticais. Ademais, as nossas máquinas são industriais e consomem muita energia, sendo que a energia aqui do estabelecimento é comercial e não doméstica. Por outro lado temos as taxas municipais que são elevadas e não são compatíveis com os rendimentos.
Como lida com a concorrência?
O mercado em si tem muitas pessoas a fazer a mesma actividade, e para dominar a concorrência é necessário trabalhar mais, investir, inovar e melhorar a qualidade dos produtos. Muitos dos clientes que procuram o meu trabalho são recomendados por outros que já o conhecem.
Quem vem ao mercado pela primeira vez, deve ter a capacidade de analisar o equipamento do alfaiate, deve observar o tipo de costura que cada alfaiate faz, através das roupas penduradas. São esses aspectos que influenciam o cliente na escolha do alfaiate.
Como é que consegue conciliar o trabalho de Corte & Costura com o de Despachante Aduaneiro?
Na área de logística tenho a colaboração de técnicos experientes. O escritório de Despachante Aduaneiro tem um email central onde são abordados todos os assuntos de trabalho. Portanto, mesmo estando trabalhar aqui no mercado, estou informado de tudo o que acontece lá, faço o controlo, depois passo pelo escritório por uma hora tempo para conciliar. Apesar de não estar lá fisicamente maior parte do tempo, o negócio está a andar normalmente.
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